When the dim rays of enlightenment had not even begun to spread to the rest of the world, here in Madurai saw the Sangams and the dawn of the Tamil literary language. Here sat the thrones of the Pandyas, seized by the Cholas and fought over for centuries - coveted by Turks from the north, the Telugus to the northwest, the Nizam's men coming east, and finally the British from far west beyond the seas. All have since faded - but the city's splendour, and the culture it birthed, remain steadfast. Madurai remains a key city for the Tamil-speaking world and its politics, with Congressmen fighting to retain control whilst the Communist Party steadily gains strength. Meanwhile, Subhasist-affiliated parties remain lurking in the shadows growing where they are not counted, insidiously waiting. As one of the former lynchpins of the Madras Presidency, the city also retains its status as the main administrative, educational and bureaucratic hub of southern Tamil Nadu - and in general of southern India.