The ancient capital of Sicily has seen better days: long gone are the times when Medieval travelers described it as "the most splendid of all cities".

Seeing rapid development and rampant over-urbanization in the 1950s, Palermo's ancient historic quarters have been strangled by cement and asphalt. Fascism turned the city into a cog in the administrative machine of the islands, whether it happens in the light of day, or through some less than clear means.